Machined Plastics and EASY CNC Calgary

Machined Plastics and EASY CNC CalgaryMachined Plastics and EASY CNC CalgaryMachined Plastics and EASY CNC Calgary

Machined Plastics and EASY CNC Calgary

Machined Plastics and EASY CNC CalgaryMachined Plastics and EASY CNC CalgaryMachined Plastics and EASY CNC Calgary
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Close-up of a car engine with visible exhaust manifold and alternator.

Extra Information

This page is contains a bit of everything, from a little more about me to some of the other products I will be selling. It also contains some of my future ideas and plans in the hopes that it may gain some interest.


It will always be a bit of a working progress, so not all content may be complete.

The largest Engineering plastic supplier

My Background

I worked in the plastic machining industry for over 10 years before I chose to setup my own machining business. At first I was going to do what I knew best, machine plastic, but there was a problem, supply. I am originally from the UK and there is no issue with sourcing these materials, after-all there are the largest suppliers in Europe. Canada and America only supply some of the basic shapes which means ordering from Europe. Once the shipping costs are factored in it makes it almost impossible to compete in this industry. I decided to stick with general machining while I get myself in a healthy financial situation and work on a solution to this problem in my spare time.


I want to concentrate on the sealing industry as I have a lot of experience in seal machining and design, I also have designed a lot of tooling specifically made to making these parts accurately and fast. I used to machine hundreds of pounds of polyurethane a day back in the UK with seals up to 36 inches in diameter, I was lucky to machine 10lbs a year in Canada. Polyurethane is used for hydraulic seals due to its durability but with that they also require Acetal or Nylon components, again these size shapes being impossible to find.


Another material I machined hundreds of pounds of was nitrile and FKM. Rubbers have an extremely high viscosity when it comes to molding, but what makes injection molding impossible is that they vulcanise under temperature, in around 2 to 15 minutes. So compression molding is often utilised to make these billets, however a pressure of 15ksi is required to mold them. Sizeable billets require extremely expensive molding machines and molds. There is another method as explained later that I want to utilise.


PTFE is chosen for its very low coefficient of friction while being soft. It is often used for wear bands and sliding surfaces, however this is not its best use, actually this is often a bad use due to its softness. Seals with spring energised lips is by far its best application. PTFE has some very favorable high heat performance properties which can be further improved by filling with carbon. Other fillers such as bronze, glass and moly can reduce friction and enhance wear properties. PTFE is very similar to rubber in that it flows poorly and sets under temperature, so again has to be compression molded. I'm hoping I have another solution to this, but it requires a little bit of experimentation beforehand. 


PEEK was 95% of the material I machined here in Canada. PEEK is one of the highest performing plastics out there but also comes with a very hefty price tag. Since the price was so high it actually negated the cost of the shipping somewhat making it fairly profitable. PEEK is not without its issues however, again suppliers are very few between, especially on anything over 3 inches in diameter. The other issue is that suppliers can't seem to perfect making good billets. Injection molding often leads to air pockets and a lot of internal stress in the final parts, this making dimensional accuracy difficult to achieve but more importantly a potential structurally flawed part. Compression molding often produces better quality billets with no pockets but even more internal stress. Lastly there is a centrifugal casting method which is used to produce larger diameters, unfortunately there are only a couple of suppliers in Europe able to do this. All of these billets are barrel shaped which makes manufacturing very difficult, you don't want to bounce a $1000 billet around your machine.

No Suppliers in Canada

There are a multitude of different types of plastics out there and many different categories. Polyurethane, Nitrile, Viton, HNBR, PTFE, PEEK, ABS, PVC, Polypropylene, Acetal, Silicone, Nylon, are just some of the common engineering grade plastics. The problem is that many of these are hard to obtain without high shipping expenses to purchase them from Europe. Many suppliers offer materials they do not stock or cannot supply in a timely manor, it makes machining plastic very expensive in Canada.

Plastics Molding

There are quite a number of different processes that can be used to produce a billet of machinable material, but that largely depends on the material itself in regards to their melting temperature and viscosity. Whether it is extrusion, compression molding or injection molding it requires quite the investment to produce a billet of material. Someone wanting a large diameter tube might only need a few inches to make their part, not hundreds of feet. It means prototyping or one off parts are out of the question for many materials. I can change that.

The Goal

I will be aiming to become the largest manufacturer of large shaped engineering grade plastics. More specifically materials that are used in the sealing industry in the form of rods and tubes. There should not be a limit in terms of diameter but initially I will go with what I can successfully machine on my current machinery, which is approximately 18 inches in diameter. I also wish to offer small billets since someone might only want to make a single part. (Ok I cheated, the image above is AI).

But How?

I worked in the seal manufacturing industry for over 10 years and have toured one of the largest supplies of raw stock in Europe. I know exactly what the issues are when it comes to machining parts from these billets. With that I know of better ways to make machining successful and how the billet should be made. I am in the process of creating several patents in this area, but more importantly I am making some prototypes to prove that these concepts are a reality.

The Machinery

Since I am currently a machine shop and design a lot of parts and products it puts me in good stead. The first step is to break this down into the manufacturing methods for these materials, thankfully I can split this into rubber and everything else. I will be purchasing some small quantities of a cheaper plastic, likely polypropylene. I will build a small prototype centrifugal casting machine to prove the concept and compile a data matrix that will successfully allow me to scale this to different materials and larger billet sizes.

When will this become available?

Like any business capital is often the most important part when starting or expanding. I literally started from nothing when I created Machined Plastics and have slowly increased my machinery capabilities. I still have a lot of legwork to do on my current business in terms of financially securing the unit I am currently renting. Thankfully this process can be started off small as the biggest cost would be having the machine manufactured, which is something I can do myself. Even with the capital at this initial stage I would still start small, from what I can find there are no machines for sale in the methods I want to produce this material. I call it centrifugal casting but it differs quite substantially from the methods used currently.


Once the small prototype has been built its a simple case of running controlled experiments. There are a number of variables, some of the basics ones are material density, melting point and centrifugal force. There will come to a point where the data starts to correlate and predications can be made, and confirmed. Once a particular material or size of mold has been proven then another variable is added. I have all the range of materials to go through, but data of melting points, densities and viscosities are readily available.


I believe once data has been collected on three types of materials and three different sizes of mold then I am in very good stead. To get to this point it may require me to go through about 1500lbs of plastic material, hence starting with cheaper plastics. Testing the sample billets also requires destruction to prove if there are flaws, which I hope to achieve a 99% success rate. Even the materials I machined myself from the premium manufacturers were not devoid of errors, so I'm hoping to be more consistent with my process.


This is the point where I can try to attract investors here in Canada or I can see how business goes by myself first. It gets exponentially more expensive to build the molds the larger a billet is, thankfully the molds themselves are fairly basic and not too expensive to make. 

Precision Hydraulic forging press

My Background

When working at my last employer I had some limited access to the machinery, with that I started to work on my own project, never with the intention of selling it. I wanted to make myself a hydraulic forging press so I could make my own parts. The reason for hydraulics and not something like a power hammer is that it is so much more compact and quieter. I quickly found that there was very little on the market and nothing that I felt I could do a better job of.


Not long after making a working prototype I chose to buy a small milling machine and lathe. I designed the parts on the press in regards to the machinery I had, which wasn't very good. Shortly after a lot of things happened in my life which meant putting machines in storage and quitting my job. A year later I chose to setup my own machine shop and give it go myself, the hydraulic press was not perfect and it got put on the back burner. 


Over the time as my business expanded I gained better machinery and could change my design to suit these better capabilities. I had looked at what was on the market and what I felt was wrong with the current designs. A lot of it being rigidity, wear parts and overall performance could be done better. I also thought my press could be used for other things such as punching and even material testing. With my final design, three fully built prototypes later and my seventh revision I feel the design is excellent. I just need to build it.  

Bronze Bushings and High Tensile Steel

I wanted to build a machine that could last forever with the right maintenance. I made the decision to make almost everything myself in such a way that any wear part can be replaced. So all bronze bushes are held in with normal bolts and all wear areas are high tensile steel. The buyer of this machine wants to be able to keep it in top condition and I feel they have the right to easy service and repairs by themselves.

Modern Intelligence

I want this machine to appeal to everyone while being the best performing that it can be. So I made the decision to power it on single phase 220V, which almost every home has. Then a VFD controls a three phase motor. With this there is a soft startup of the motor, the efficiency of a three phase motor but more importantly I can control the speed of the motor. The press needs to move as fast as possible to increase productivity, this is normally done with a bigger pump and motor. With the VFD I can spin the motor up faster when unloaded, and slowing it down when hydraulic pressure rises. This way I can make a cheaper and higher performing machine.

Specifications

3HP at 220V Single Phase - 2.5kW Maximum Draw

53000lbs crush / 44000lbs pulling (24 ton crush / 20 ton pull)

10 Inch Stroke

14 Inch Daylight (Customisable)

7.15 Inch Maximum Die Width x 6 Inch Platen Depth

1.6"/sec Down speed, 1.9" /sec up speed (Unloaded)

Auto Retract, Custom Stop Limits, Custom Speed.

Twin foot pedals and mode selection switch.

Drop down wheels to move it around when required.

Availability

I have a working version of the previous revision without the VFD. 


I hope to build the newest version in the near future with a list price of $15000 CAD.


Lead time is 6 weeks currently and requires a $5000 deposit.


It will feature some wheels on Cams that drop down in order to move it around the shop and then retract them so it sits without moving. There will also be mounting plates to bolt it to the floor.

125 Tonne press

Versatility

This is a hydraulic press intended for moulding or stamping. The design is basic for easy use and servicing. It is capable of pressing and pulling. The platen is guided with bronze bushes along with the rod, this make it extremely long lasting and sturdy.

Adaptability

The small footprint allows multiple units to be placed side by side to best utilise floor space. A hydraulic pump can power multiple units saving power and cost.

Specification

Platen 17.75 x 17.75"

Bore 12 Inch - 283klbs Press - 173klbs Pull

Stroke 10 Inch - Customisable

Daylight 15.375 Inch - Customisable

Hydraulic Rated at 2500psi

Weight - 2200lbs

Cost - Approx. $30k (Requires a quote)

Hydraulic Powered Machine Moving Skates

My Problem

Starting my own machine shop meant finding somewhere small to fit some very large machinery. With moving machinery it requires a forklift often much larger than the machine itself, that can make it impossible to utilise the space efficiently. One of these options is to use some moving skates which can be successful if you have a multitude of people at your disposal.


I chose to design my own hydraulically powered moving skates to get around this and you can purchase it.

5 Ton Economy Skate MPC-5K

This is the first unit I created to move my machines, it uses a single hydraulic motor to power four polyurethane coated wheels. Swivel Top Plate on bearings. All Bronze Bushings.

Approx. Dimensions are 14.5" Wide, 13.5" Depth and 6.5" Tall

5000kg / 11000lbs Capacity.

200lbs unit weight - Not including Hydraulic Pack.

Based on a 1HP/0.63GPM  will equate to 106 Inch/Min

10 Ton Deluxe Skate MPC-10K

This is the second unit I created to move my machines, it uses two hydraulic motors to power four polyurethane coated wheels. Each motor can be driven independently to aid in steering. Swivel Top Plate on bearings. All Bronze Bushings.

Approx. Dimensions are 25" Wide, 14.75" Depth and 5.5" Tall

10000kg / 22000lbs Capacity.

300lbs unit weight - Not including Hydraulic Pack.

Based on a 1HP/0.63GPM pump will equate to 50 Inch/Min.

The MPC-10K Unit

This is the preferred moving option as it has the highest load rating with a very comfortable safety factor. The main frame is machined out of a single solid piece of steel and then the drive shafts held in place with 16 bolts. The shafts remain stationary while the rollers spin on them with the aid of very heavy duty bronze bushes. The rollers have polyurethane bonded to them to help increase friction and reduce potential damage to flooring. It is crucial that the floor is clean, flat and preferably smooth. We understand that mistakes and wear will happen, so the design makes it very easy to remove and replace rollers. Only two Allen wrenches are required to replace wear parts on this unit.


Each hydraulic motor uses a quick connect adapter for easy and quick decommissioning of the unit. There is also a third drain port on each motor that should be connected straight to the hydraulic tank. Due to the unit having two hydraulic motors it requires the use of a rotary gear flow divider to ensure that each motor is allowed the same amount of oil and the same top speed. Care must be taken to drive each motor correctly to move the machine in the right direction. Steep steering will put considerably more wear on the wheels, it is best to avoid that.


This unit is extremely heavy at 300lbs and care must be taken when lifting or moving it. Two carry handles at either side of the unit are used to aid with this. It must be noted that a single person should not lift this equipment and the necessary means must be used.

Power Pack

The MPC-5K skate has quick connectors on the hydraulics so the user can user their own pack, however it is recommended not to exceed 1HP or 0.63GPM Flow.


The MPC-10K skate again has quick connectors but requires a power pack with rotary gear flow divider to ensure that each motor gets equal amounts of oil.


I do not recommend using a larger or faster pack as you want to do this process as safe as possible.


You should never use a skate or these powered skates on any sort of incline. 

Skate Layout

The most stable way of moving a machine is to have three points of contact as shown by the blue dots, this helps to prevent skates from slipping. A further two skates should be used for safety to prevent the machine from tipping.


The safest practise is to keep it slow and have a spotter watching each skate to make sure they stay in place.


Some machines have holes through their castings to place lifting bars, these can be utilised to keep the machine as close to the ground as possible. I machine is much safer 0.5 inches from the ground rather than 6 inches off the ground.

The Cost

MPC-5K   - $5000 CAD

MPC-10K  - $12000 CAD


MPC-5K Power Pack - $2500 CAD

MPC-10K Power Pack - $3500 CAD


These skates are made to order so the current lead time is 6 weeks, however I can often make them much faster if required.

12 Speed sequential transmission

A first and a bit of fun !

I used to design a lot of stuff in my spare time but did not have the machinery to make it, but now I have the machinery I don't have a lot of spare time, or rather spare money. I had a few days off over Christmas and started on a design for a sequential transmission. I have a BMW M70 V12 engine I would like to put in a project some day, so I would like to machine every part and make all the electronics myself. I don't want to be the norm, so making my own transmission is a very important step.

How many Gears?

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the right gear ratios and how many gears it should have. The 4 and 6 speed sequential is very common in racing but not really much above that, and 8 and 10 speed automatics are becoming quite popular for economy purposes.

I figured a 12 speed sequential should be nuts enough, and would be a lot of fun with a lower powered engine.

It will have the gearing for a hill climb car, a track car and a drag car all in one transmission.

Semi-Sequential ?

My first design would have a high / low primary set of gears coupled to six gear sets, it turned out gear 6 and 7 ended up with the same ratios, so an 11 speed. To combat this I made a pneumatic actuator system so that any gear could be selected. If accelerating hard you can go through every gear, or if cruising then you can skip gears. All of the gears use dog engagement so gear changes are fast and can be clutch-less.

The pneumatic system was very complex and then I thought this is taking the fun out of the sequential, it is also ginormous.

Revision 6

I decided that I should make a completely mechanical sequential this time. I started again with the ratios and made sure they had the right spacing. 3.86   3.00    2.39    1.93   1.57   1.29   1.00    0.78    0.62   0.50   0.41   0.33 . I feel like these give the best of all driving types and doesn't make the gear shifting too ridiculous. Take note that gear 4 is traditionally 1.00 and gear 5 is the overdrive, this transmission has five overdrive gears. It is similar design in that there is a primary set of high / low gears coupled to six sets of gears. There are few variations on dogs, either both on the engagement ring and gear, or in my design just on the engagement ring. My gears each have a cutout in them to accept the dog, this does make it stronger at the expensive of shifting reliability. Better slam those gears!


With this new design I can save some space with the cutouts in the gears and I also saved some space with less bearings. If a helical gear is used then the gear is quieter and stronger at the expense of higher side forces. Having side forces means that taper roller bearings have to be used. Going with straight cut gears removes the side load and a regular deep groove ball bearing can be used. Straight cut gears are very slightly more efficient at the expense of being weaker for their given size and considerably noisier. Overall I managed to make the gearbox to half the length of the original design.


I now own a wire EDM machine which I can use to cut the straight gears and the splines, it may take a while but it will be worth it. For scale the diametric pitch of the gears is 5 inches, with each gear being 1.5 inches wide. The largest gear is a 60 tooth with a diameter of 7.75 inches. Each bearing that presses into the gears is of 85mm / 3.45" in diameter. I probably won't be running big power through this setup, maybe 500HP, so it should be durable enough.

Constant Mesh

The sequential is often known as a "constant mesh" gear box since every single gear pair is turning against the other. This does add to the weight of the rotating assembly and with the addition of oil adds to the friction. This transmission will run less efficiently and produce more heat.

There is an input shaft, middle shaft and output shaft on this particular design. The input and output only turn the gear the dog is engaged to. The middle shaft has one common spine which connects all of the gears.

Lots of Bearings

On the input and output shaft each gear is made to spin freely on top of the spin until it is engaged by a dog. This was an area I was most worried on the previous design that there was not enough bearings. 

This design incorporates a heavy duty ball bearing to idle on the input or output shaft. There is a second bearing in the form of a needle bearing which allows the dog engagement ring to support the gear which also moving up and down the spline. Then there are a multiple of hardened shims that act as thrust bearings between each surface.

Revision 7

One part of the design I was stuck on was the shift forks for the dog engagement ring. Most of the time these use a basic fork that gets lubricated by the splash of oil, just the aluminum acting as bearing material. The friction is only ever present for a very brief period when changing gears, but my design is a little bit different. I did not want this part to wear out too quickly as potentially the output shaft could hit 15,000 rpm or more. Needle roller or even ball bearings take up a lot of space and are fairly limited at these higher speeds due to the diameter. The ring itself is about 4.5 inches diameter in my design.


I did a lot of thinking again with the layout and the design. Should I make it all mechanical or air-assisted for faster and more reliable shifting. I also have one ring between two gears, but what if it was to engage just a single gear. I set to working on a completely new revision of the gearbox while keeping the same gear designs and ratios. I came up with a spring loaded pneumatic cylinder for each of the gear sets. If there is a lack of pressure then it will be in the neutral state and only one pressure valve is required for each gear set. I have dropped the all mechanical aspect in favour of making it simpler.


I will include some hall sensors on each cylinder so that it cannot engage another gear until the actuator has returned.


Pneumatic Shifting

A pneumatic cylinder is built into the housing plate and when activated pushes the dog ring into the gear. A smaller diameter bearing allows it to spin freely and reliably. A set of springs push against this cylinder so that it will return when the pressure is released.


There is enough room to place a larger more heavy duty bearing in there, if required. My big hope is that if I use the return springs like keys it will prevent the piston from spinning.

Reverse Gear

I forgot to point out that I have not designed a reverse gear yet and it will not work with the first gear how them normally do. I am stuck between placing an electric motor on the middle shaft which could aid in reverse.


The other option is to add an extra set of gears, that also means the availability of full power through reverse, but is it necessary?

What next?

I'd say the design is very close to being completed, my only issue is that I won't be able to completely 3D print a plastic prototype. The cylinder and piston will likely need to be made from metal, or even I machine them from plastic.


Once I am happy with the 3D printed prototype it would then need the lubrication system worked out, and that I want to go a little crazy on, I want this thing to last. I was originally thinking that the middle shaft will be coupled to a large flowing hydraulic pump, that can then be used to lubricate every single bearing and gear. The problem is that this shaft can reach 18,000rpm with an engine speed of 6000rpm, so I feel that rules out a mechanical pump without further gearing. There is also the issue that when in neutral the middle shaft won't be spinning even if either the engine is or the output shaft is. I also have an idea to couple an electric motor to the middle shaft as part of a hybrid / generator system. So while I don't particularly like the idea of it, for now it might utilise an external electric oil pump. Splash lubrication is enough for pretty much every manual gearbox out there, my only worry is it getting to the bearings on the middle shaft.

Help Me!

I have the machinery, the knowledge to design it and the time (I think on all those). The only thing I really don't have is the money to make this thing without compromising saving enough money for a deposit on my industrial unit. This is going to be a first of its kind and a fun project, but unfortunately that doesn't pay my bills.


So if you've read this page and you're inspired to help me, or you've come here from other sources then I greatly appreciate all the help I can get.


Money is of course the best, but I have composed a list of things I will need to make it happen, so if you're sitting on any of these and feeling generous then I would gladly take the help. Please no cheap quality Chinese parts.


As much as I would love for people to offer doing the machining for me too, not sure I want to give out the designs, and I really would like to do the work myself.


Thanks!


 

Parts

If you've read the previous section you may want to help me out, here is a list of most of what I will need. The list will grow as the design becomes more complete.


Bearings;

6209 - Qty 8

6909 - Qty 8

HK4520 - Qty 8

6210 - Qty 12

1mm Wide x 42mm Bore Hardened Shim - Qty 20


Metal;

Solid Round 4340 - 1.75" pieces of each

8" - Qty 2        6.5" - Qty 1       5.0" - Qty 2      3.5" - Qty 1

7.5" - Qty 1      6"  - Qty 2         4.5" - Qty 1      3.0" - Qty 2

7" - Qty 1         5.5" - Qty 2      4.0" - Qty 1


Solid Round 4340

2.5" dia at 2ft

6.0" dia at 18" (a guess for shift dog)


4340 Spine Shaft 36x42mm ISO 14 - Qty 2.0m (Maedler I think)


Aluminum 

10.5 x 15.5 x 1" - Qty 4

10.5 x 15.5 x 3" - Qty 8

10.5 x 15.5 x 2" - Qty 2


Plus more when I add it.


Other Projects

I have a lot of projects to complete!

If you've read this far then you can probably tell I have a lot on my mind. I love to design stuff and eventually I hope I can build it. Right now my obstacle is saving money to purchase my industrial unit, every time I move it puts me six months behind again.

World Record Projects

I want to set some world records eventually, some of these I have already or partially design.


200 Cylinder Air Engine

100 Cylinder 2-stroke Motorcycle

100 Cylinder 4-stroke Motorcycle

1000 Cylinder 4-stroke Car

10L Single Cylinder Motorcycle

100 Pulse Jet Bicycle

General Silly Projects

These are some projects that might not set world records but are down right silly in their own, again some of these I have already finished the design.


Fastest Ice Cube Maker - 2 Inch Cubes in a second

6 Motorcycle Engine Mini Truck

A V12 Quad Turbo with 12 Speed Sequential Truck


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